As we sped across the narrow channel separating the Greek Island of Chios from Turkey, I thought surf hunting was finished for a while, but I was getting used to being wrong.
For ten months I combed the darkest corners of west Africa with my surfboard strapped to a motorbike. I found countless empty waves, striking landscapes, and generous people. I hope these scenes provide a flavor for the journey.
Plenty of dudes have an unhealthy preoccupation with gear of one kind or another and I’m no different. Shiny new things provide fleeting distraction from bits of day-to-day suffering, and preparation for a long journey provides an excellent excuse to fill your garage with stuff. Continue Reading →